Welcome to Polished with Elise Wilson, where Daily Mail’s skilled hair stylist and makeup artist responds to your enquiries, offers guidance, and tests the newest skincare and beauty trends so you don’t have to.
Makeup artists used to keep their techniques like state secrets.
While the rest of us were still furiously drawing enormous concealer triangles under our eyes and wondering why our eyebrows looked like they had been drawn on by an irate toddler, these are the kinds of techniques you’d only ever see backstage at Fashion Week (which is happening in Australia this week, by the way) or whispered about on celebrity shoots.
However, the beauty sector has seen significant transformation in only the last five years.
TikTok has fundamentally changed how we consume beauty advice, celebrity makeup artists have become superstars themselves, and insider tips that were previously only available to Hollywood’s elite are now available on our phones in 30-second lessons.
I’ll admit that even as a long-time makeup artist, I’ve had to radically reconsider my own regimen.
My current application of makeup is entirely different from what I wore five years ago.
Undoubtedly, some of that is what many now refer to as the “Australian Effect” (more on that here), but a significant portion of it has also come down to the tiniest technical adjustments that have ultimately had the most impact on my face.
Surprisingly, very few people seem to be aware of the three makeup techniques I firmly believe have radically changed how my makeup appears on my skin.
According to Daily Mail beauty expert Elise Wilson, there are three cosmetic tips for your foundation, concealer, and contour that will change any face in a matter of minutes. Mecca Max Off Duty Contour Stick ($22), Clarins Double Serum Foundation ($76), Charlotte Tilbury AirBrush Setting Spray ($33), and Sephora Collection Concealer ($28) are shown.
A FOUNDATION HACK
Like most people, I used a combination of my fingers, cosmetic sponges, and dense buffing brushes to apply foundation for years.
Additionally, even while fingers are a great way to melt product into the skin, I was never able to consistently get that high-end-looking silky finish without occasionally getting streaky, patchy, or a little cakey around the nose.
Then I saw international makeup artist Nathan Kake apply foundation to me, and I saw right away why his skin always looks perfect.
He pours foundation into the palm of his hand before swirling a big, soft, fluffy brush into the substance to equally coat the fibres while also warming the foundation, as opposed to pumping it straight onto the face or brush.
Although it sounds a little messy, the improvement is significant, and it’s even better if the base you choose already contains skincare products.
The solution is partially melted by your hand’s warmth before it even reaches the skin, and coating the entire brush uniformly avoids concentrated product lumps that could cause streaks or heaviness.
The true technique is to use circular motions to buff the foundation into the skin instead of painting or dragging it on.
The skin still has the appearance of skin, but it is softer, smoother, and nearly airbrushed without seeming thick. It’s the closest thing I’ve discovered to replicating the radiance of a famous makeup artist at home.
Foundation tip: To get a satin finish, pump foundation into the palm of your hand first, then swirl a large, soft, fluffy brush into the product to coat the fibres evenly and warm the foundation before applying it to your face in gentle, circular strokes.
HACKING CONCEALER
The second method totally changed my under-eye area, and I sincerely wish more women over 30 knew about it.
The majority of us continue to apply concealer using the hefty triangles beneath the eyes applied over foundation that beauty YouTube taught us ten years ago.
Unfortunately, such method frequently accomplishes the exact opposite of our goals.
Overuse of product beneath the eyes can actually drag the skin down rather than elevate it, accentuate small wrinkles, and cause creases.
I now use moisturising skincare products instead of applying any foundation to the entire under-eye area.
After my eye cream has fully absorbed, I use a fluffy eyeshadow brush to lightly mist setting spray (Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray is the best I’ve tested) below my eyes.
Concealer tip: Apply a moisturising skincare product to the entire under-eye area, let it absorb, and then prime with a setting spray.
This step is revolutionary since it prevents the dreaded cracked, dry look later in the day and gives the concealer an almost flexible hold.
Then there’s the positioning technique, which hardly anyone can do correctly.
I apply a tiny dot of concealer a little lower, aiming for underneath the inner corner and close to the base of the nose bridge, as there is exactly where the darkest shadows tend to be found, rather than dragging concealer straight into the inner corner beneath the lash line.
After that, I’ll add another tiny dot to the eye’s outer corner, being careful not to get too close to the lashline.
I buff the concealer in with little swirling motions that move outward across the face using the same fluffy brush.
There is far less creasing throughout the day, no thick mask-like finish, and no visible block of product under the eyes. We still want your skin to look like skin, but exercising restraint is crucial.
Lighter, well-placed concealer nearly always looks younger than aggressively applied concealer, but you can always build it up gradually if you need more coverage.
Place a little dot somewhat lower, aiming for underneath the inner corner and close to the base of the nasal bridge, as that is exactly where the darkest shadows tend to sit, rather than dragging concealer directly into the inner corner beneath the lash line where the most creasing happens.
Buff the concealer in with little swirling strokes that move outward across the face using the same fluffy brush. There is much less creasing throughout the day and no visible block of product under the eyes. Here, moderation is crucial; your skin should still appear like skin.
CONTOURING METHOD
Over the years, contouring has undergone numerous stages.
With excessively grey stripes, muddy jawlines, and enough harsh blending lines to haunt us all forever, what began as a backstage makeup artist trick became a full-fledged internet fad.
However, contouring remains one of the simplest methods for softly defining and reshaping the face when done correctly.
Placing contour straight into the hollows of the cheeks is the biggest error I see people doing. Ironically, rather than lifting the cheeks, this looks to draw the face downward.
Contour tip: The largest error that many individuals make is applying contour straight into the hollows of their cheeks, which can make them appear lifted rather than gaunt. Apply along the cheekbone instead.
Never drag the contour inward toward the center of the face; instead, buff it outward in circular strokes with a stippling brush.
For me, contouring just above the hollow was the trick that made all the difference.
I begin around the top of the ear and sweep the contour just above the cheekbone, finishing roughly halfway down the face in line with the outer corner of the eye, using a matte cream contour (yes, matte is crucial because contour and bronzer are not the same thing).
I never pull the contour inward toward the center of the face; instead, I buff it outward in circular motions with a stippling brush.
Without appearing harsh or overdone, the placement immediately produces a more elevated aspect and gives the appearance of higher cheekbones.
The entire face seems more youthful and sculpted once blush and highlight are gently applied above the contour line.
The ironic thing about makeup is that most changes don’t result from using additional product.
They result from knowing location, texture, and technique; occasionally, even the smallest alteration can drastically alter your face.
Notice:
This article’s opinions and viewpoints are entirely mine and do not represent those of any companies or brands that are mentioned. There is no sponsorship or endorsement for this content.
