When viewed from a distance—the farther away the better—Croydon’s glass and concrete skyline appears almost dreamlike in the sunlight.
As my train approaches the station, I can momentarily transport myself back to the town’s heyday in the 1960s, when it was a daring attempt at post-war modernisation and a miniature version of Manhattan.
But up close, it’s clear why the locals refer to it as a “ghost town.”
The iconic 24-story Nestlé Tower is a representation of urban deterioration. Shops are closing all around it, and violent crime is continuing to increase. The council, which has filed for bankruptcy three times in the last six years, owes at least £1.4 billion, so nothing gets mended.
When you bring up elections to voters in this area, you are almost always met with either venomous wrath or weary resignation.
The town hall election on Thursday is a reflection of the altering political landscape in Croydon, assuming the town is a microcosm of Britain. The race provides a window into the near future, when races with four or five horses are commonplace.
Polls indicate that it will be close, with Reform, the Greens, and the Lib Dems all chasing behind Labour and the Tories.
You are immediately reminded that Croydon has one of the highest crime rates in the capital as you arrive at the train station. One lunchtime last week, what seemed to be six police officers in black uniforms and hi-vis tunics were stationed throughout the concourse. It turns out that they are “travel safe officers” (TSOs), who handle minor crimes but lack the authority to make an arrest.
The iconic 24-story Nestlé Tower in the middle is a representation of urban deterioration. Shops are closing all around it, and violent crime is continuing to increase.
You are immediately reminded that Croydon has one of the highest rates of crime in the capital as you arrive at the train station.
As I rush straight out of the station to join the throng of people making their way to the town center, I instantly regret their helplessness.
Swarming toward us on scooters and e-bikes, young men swoosh from one side of the pavement to the other like slalom skiers. What a waste of TSOs. There isn’t a single bobby in the real thing.
“Think it’s bad now, wait until you see this place at night,” cautions 44-year-old IT worker Andrew Skelton. He has spent the last seven years residing in the borough. “The council tax has increased by 33% over the past few years, but the benefits have decreased.” “I’m still not sure about the elections.” I have previously voted for both the Tories and Labour, but not this time. At least not this time.
Walk a little farther, avoid the bikes, and Croydon starts to reveal its famous sites: the expansive Fairfield Halls, the biggest arts facility in South London, and the Nestlé tower, which has been vacant for 14 years. It truly appears to have been struck by a bomb because it is windowless. Slogans like “This is England” are written on its lower floors. Another calls for people to ‘Support the UK’.
St George’s Walk, a shopping arcade, is located under a dark underpass at the base of this monolith.
Above its entrance is a public notice that reads, “BUSINESSES AND SHOPS IN ST GEORGE’S WALK SHOPPING CENTRE ARE OPEN AS USUAL,” however it turns out that over half of them have closed. It’s easy to see and smell why once you’re inside. Urine has an overpowering odour.
“Awful, isn’t it?” says Deniz Sengul, the 51-year-old owner of the dry cleaners, with a pained expression. Pregnant ladies and elderly people who are pressed for time utilise the arcade as a restroom because the town center lacks public restrooms.
“We have CCTV of the vandals, who don’t even bother to cover their faces these days, but the police don’t want to know,” says local business owner Deniz Sengul. St George’s Walk is a shopping strip located at the base of this monolith.
The ground is covered in bird droppings, while business shutters and walls are covered in graffiti. Deniz claims, “We have CCTV of the vandals, who don’t even bother to cover their faces these days, but the police don’t want to know.”
Deniz continues, “It’s down to us to scrub away the urine,” adding that neither does the council.
“This location has had a dry cleaning since shortly after the war. People come in and tell me about their childhood memories of the arcade, when there was a small art gallery, an Italian cafe, and a model shop.
We are now shutting down one by one. It was the bridal dress shop a few weeks ago, followed by the haberdashery. It used to be a bistro and a barbershop. It’s truly tragic.
Deniz claims that failed promises have “turned me into a Reform man” despite having previously backed the Tories.
Michael Sales, 67, joins us and tells me about his abstract painting display at a local cafe. I’ve only sold one in the past month. Simply put, people no longer have the money.
Michael was born and raised in Croydon and has grown increasingly enraged as he has witnessed the town’s downfall. He offers to give me a tour.
He remembers his mother taking him to the Grants department store on the High Street, which was dubbed the “Harrods of South London,” when Croydon was renowned for its variety and calibre of stores.
Michael Sales remembers his mother taking him to the Grants department store on the High Street, which is referred to as the “Harrods of South London.” It has been closed for a long time.
Michael, who was up in Croydon, has grown increasingly enraged as he has witnessed the town’s downfall.
Michael gestures to its imposing exterior, a remnant of Victoriana with stained glass windows and inscriptions like “Lace” and “Gloves” engraved into its frontage. A chain Caribbean restaurant with dirty, poster-covered windows is vacant beneath it. Michael remarks, “It really is a ghost town.” “This place is empty.”
A walk around the Whitgift shopping center, which is close by, emphasises his thesis. There are just a few stores left, and it is completely deserted.
The topic of the council’s debt mountain will soon come up if you talk to anyone here. Both Labour and the Conservatives agree that renegotiating Croydon’s debt will require intervention from the federal government. Westminster has dispatched commissioners to oversee the council’s management in the interim.
We come across something that does brighten our spirits on our way back to St George’s Walk. The National Gallery has “partnered with Croydon Council” to replicate thirty life-size paintings, including a Caravaggio and a Renoir, in Park Hill Park and other green areas. Thankfully, vandals do not bother them as they dangle from railings.
“Nice, aren’t they?” asks Ada, an older woman. But in my opinion, it’s a case of fur coat and no knickers. First, they wish to settle the rest of the town.
However, one store back in St George’s Walk appears to be doing well. It sells and fixes e-bikes and scooters, which are widely regarded as the plague of our day. “How’s business?” When I question Dowell Virginie, the proprietor, he smiles and says, “Booming.”
It is, of course.
